Vol. 22, No. 2 April / May / June 2014 - La Crosse Floral
In this issue:
- Dr. Greenthumb
- The Little Sprout
- Grower To Grower
- Teresa’s Pieces
- KZ’s Kreative Korner
- Trends
- Slow Cooker Pork Tacos
Did you know?
As more of us are going green, a town in Sweden is actually researching a less expensive and environmentally friendly alternative to cremation. They use a technique that freeze-dries corpses and turns them into powder. The remains are placed in a biodegradable box and buried in a shallow grave. After a year, when the powder and box have disintegrated, family, friends or townspeople may plant a tree on the grave. The remains act as fertilizer!
Flower Facts
Top 5 Flowers For Mother’s Day
- Rose – Roses have long been associated with motherhood, a popular choice for Mother’s Day ….. usually pink or yellow.
- Lilac – Lilacs have been known to symbolize new love. But it also symbolizes love between mother and child.
- Iris – The iris symbolizes affection and warmth.
- Carnation – Pink carnations are believed to have first grown from the ground where the Virgin Mary shed tears over Jesus’ death, therefore, many believe that carnations are a symbol of a mother’s eternal love.
- Tulip – Tulips are often associated with new life, charity, and spring.
Top 5 Flowers for Father’s Day
- Carnation – Carnations are one of the hardiest flowers, representing the strengths of dads.
- Iris – The iris carries a universal appeal, usually shown as blue, which makes it a hit for Father’s Day.
- Hydrangea – Hydrangeas possess enduring grace and beauty. Because of this, it is usually a popular choice for Father’s Day.
- Sunflower – Sunflowers make such a bold statement in bouquets that they are often a top choice.
- Tulip – Tulips’ abilities to keep growing in water and to reopen during the day is a great representation of a father’s love.
Garden Glossary
Gray Water – Water that has been used in the house to wash dishes or wash clothes and has the potential, with caution, to be used again in the garden.
Mosaiculture – The growing of plants in potting media that is encased in a wire framework. The framework creates the shape of the desired object. Unlike a topiary, the plants are growing in the form – not growing up and around the form.
Dr. Greenthumb
This has been a long hard winter for some evergreens, especially the yew and arborvitae families. The very dry fall without supplemental watering has left the plants not ready for winter. A combination of dry fall, frozen soil, and wind lead to browning of the needles. Many will recover after several years of proper pruning. These conditions act to dehydrate the tops, especially on the south side of the plant that gets the most drying sun. Very cold temperatures also keep the sap from returning to the leaves. The frost is not as deep under the snow. In fact, when I measured it in mid-March the temperature of the soil beneath twelve inches of snow was 32°F! The antidessicant Wiltprof would have slowed the browning if applied late in the fall when the temperature was still above 40°F.
I am going to try to protect my shrubs from the time of this writing (mid-March) until the frost is out of the ground in four ways: 1.) Leave the snow on the low ones as long as possible, 2.) shade the plants with a cloth, 3.) prune off the brown areas making sure the growing tips are dead before culling, and 4.) watering well throughout the summer. It may take two years to return them to their proper shape. More information may be had by contacting our county agent, Steve Hutzenbuehler.
The Little Sprout
Are you ready for planting? I sure am. I’m sick of all these sub-zero temperatures and yucky dirty snow banks I see outside my window. Having just gotten back from Atlanta, I’m ready for some signs of spring. As a rooftop gardener, I can often put my Container Gardens together well before the rest of you can dig in the ground. I always want at least one pot of color just outside my French doors to the rooftop (and on the way to my grill). Flowers such as pansies, diascia, heather, and even lettuce find their way into my pots. There is nothing quite like picking lettuce for your burger on the way back inside from the grill. Better yet? On a sunny day I can sit out on the roof and eat al fresco – a black rubber roof gets quite toasty in both the early spring and late fall, provided there is adequate sunshine.
Now that I have your stomachs growling for a freshly grilled burger, I broach a subject that is once again in the news – Downy Mildew on impatiens. Impatiens are to the Gardener, what milk is to most refrigerators, a staple. We are so used to this easy care, no-brainer flower for our shady areas. What is a Gardener to do? Well – first of all, this disease only affects impatiens walleriana. If you have not had your impatiens die all of a sudden, you may still be open to planting the regular impatiens you see available. If you are a little scared to plant regular impatiens, I would suggest either New Guinea Impatiens or Sunpatiens. These impatiens are not affected by this disease! Sunpatiens have been around for a few years now, so more information is known about their growth habits. When first introduced, they were simply brought to the consumer because they looked like impatiens, but could tolerate more sun and heat. Some of you look at the higher retail price of a Sunpatien and scoff – after all, regular impatiens are quite a bit less of an expenditure. As a Grower (yes – we Grow the plants we sell to you), I find the 2 classifications of Sunpatiens to be quite confusing – there are
- Sunpatiens Compact – heights can range from 16 to 32 inches
spread can be from 14 to 24 inches.
- Sunpatiens Spreading – heights can range from 20 to 36 inches
spread can be from 24 to 36 inches
The word “compact” usually makes us think small space and small pot gardening. I personally do not view a height of 16 to 32 inches as “compact”, but you can see you they are compact in comparison to the “spreading” Sunpatiens.
How can you really measure Bang for Your Buck in one Sunpatien plant versus one pack of regular impatiens? Another attribute is that they thrive in both sun and shade. The plants look better the longer they grow right up until a hard frost! So a Sunpatien provides twice as much coverage and flower power color than the regular impatien. My Dad, Dr. Greenthumb, always reminded me “Newer is not always Better”. In the case of Sunpatiens, newer is Better. Our Grower and I spent a week at the Michigan Plant Trials last August – the perfect place and time to view these Garden Super Stars. We grew 3 varieties last year. For 2014 we are growing 10 varieties –
Sunpatien Spreading – Corona Salmon
Sunpatien Compact – Coral, Electric Orange, White, Deep Rose, Orange, Magenta,
Lilac, and Red
I am excited for the first time in years about Impatiens. My Grandpa, Hans, had a passion for many flowers, but he really was an incredible Grower of Impatiens. He would be devastated to learn of this Downy Mildew affecting his beloved impatiens. Many who came to his house would see the window boxes filled with gargantuan Impatiens – just like the window boxes in Germany. Since his house faced north, impatiens were the perfect choice. I know he would love the Sunpatiens Compact. Our Horticulture Scientists have come up with a solution, a Better Flower, the Sunpatien! So this year, give Sunpatiens a try. I think they’re another no-brainer. I know I’ll try some up on the rooftop alongside my beloved vinca periwinkles. But I’ll give these beasts Big Pots to grow in. Time to leave work and go grill a burger.
Other Great Finds from the Plant Trials last summer that we are Growing in 2014:
Petunia – Blue Stardust, Cherry Cheesecake, Indian Summer
Geranium – Sarita Series: Punch, Wild Salmon, Lilac Splash
Grower To Grower
Green beans are my family’s favorite vegetable. They are not too keen on picking them, but never turn them down when offered some to eat. Last spring I heard from local gardeners that there were problems growing beans. The wet spring caused early plantings to rot in the ground. I waited until after Memorial Day to plant mine and had uneven germination. Soil moisture and soil temperature are major factors in germination. Up to four different types of soil fungus can attack bean seeds. Some good beans that have resistance to one or more of these pathogens are Blue Lake, Venture, and Jade II. Soils that are high in organic matter sometimes harbor a maggot that lays its eggs in the soil. The larvae burrow into the seed. This is the reason some seeds are covered in an insecticidal powder.
Common blight, as the name implies, is an extremely common problem. Blotches of yellow and brown spread across the leaves, causing the leaves to drop. This bacterial disease is spread through the seeds. It develops during hot summers when the plants, pods and seed are wet with rain. Do not save your seed from plants to reuse next season. You will just spread it again.
Blossom drop is a sign of stress. The weather is usually warming up about the time beans start to set their flowers. Extreme heat along with low soil moisture is the likely cause. The plant will hang on to some of the flowers, but can’t sustain them all. Once the weather cools, or you start watering more often, the issue should correct itself.
Green beans, like tomatoes, have different growth habits. The vining type or indeterminate produce beans in stages. They are easier to pick, but require more growing space. Bush beans, or determinate, usually produce larger amounts all at once. For gardeners with small spaces, bush-types are a good choice. Bush beans are also well-suited for large containers.
Not all beans are built the same when it comes to flavor. Here are the more popular options. The yellow colored waxbean is heat stable and is not soluble in water, so therefore it stays a sunny yellow after cooking. The flavor is sweeter than many green varieties. French beans are thinner than traditional green beans. They require very little cooking. Greenbeans are very tender and some say their taste is similar to asparagus, with a “grassy” or “earthy” taste. Heirloom varieties come in an array of purples and reds. The pigments in these are water soluble so, sadly, they lose their color when cooked. They have a similar taste and flavor as their all-green siblings.
In all my years of gardening, beans have never been a disappointment. Having to reseed some occasionally is no bother. Understanding that beans are a vegetable that needs water when it’s hot is half the battle. Protecting them from rabbits is the other half. The reward is worth the extra effort.
Teresa’s Pieces
Wow, what a radical winter. Totally harshed my mellow! And now I have a hankerin’ for a tasty, homegrown tomato. Unless they’re locally grown, store bought ones leave a lot to be desired. Am I right?
If you’re a beginner, you’ll learn some basic guidelines in my article to grow your own. If you’re a seasoned grower, use the info as a refresher course!
First choose a few aspects besides flavor that you want in your tomato varieties. Hybrid types like Early Girl, Better Boy, and Celebrity are more uniform in shape and color and are more disease resistant.
Hybrids adapt well to many climates. Heirlooms, such as Brandywine and Mortgage Lifter, have been around for over 50 years. You won’t get the uniform shape and color of a hybrid, but, boy, is the flavor there!
Also decide whether you want to grow determinate or indeterminate tomatoes. Determinate plants are compact types like Celebrity and Roma. They bear fruit and ripen over a short period of time, making them a good choice for canning. If you have limited space try Megabite, a dwarf plant that grows to only 8” X 16” in size, or Tumbling Tom, a cherry tomato. I’ve grown Tumbling Tom in containers and hanging baskets for the last few years and find them to be prolific producers and tasty!
Indeterminate varieties grow and set fruit continuously until they’re killed by a hard frost. I grow at least one indeterminate tomato, as I like to pick a few at a time for a salad or sandwich. Early Girl, Big Beef, and Sun Sugar (a flavorful yellow/orange cherry tomato) are a few examples.
Whether using a container or planting directly into the ground, you need to ready your soil. Work 3-4” of organic matter (like compost) and an all-purpose organic fertilizer (I use Neptune’s Harvest Fish Fertilizer) into the soil. Or try Buffaloam, a new product we have that’s 100% organic all-purpose food made from buffalo compost. This product provides both the food and compost you need plus the added benefit of mycorrhizae (a beneficial fungus) to promote strong roots. Applying some lime to the soil helps prevent blossom-end rot. Don’t use a high nitrogen fertilizer to begin with as they promote too many leaves, resulting in very few fruits.
Plant tomatoes in full sun where they’ll receive at least 6 hours of midday light. Avoid soil where tomatoes and other members of the nightshade family (peppers, eggplant or potatoes) have been previously planted in the last 2-3 years to prevent disease carryover. Remove all leaves from stems that will be underground, and be sure to plant them as deep as you can. Give plants plenty of air circulation by spacing them 20-36” apart.
Stake or cage your tomatoes, but be careful not to disturb the roots. Mulch around them with about 4” of compost, straw or hay. This keeps soil evenly moist, controls weeds, and prevents diseases from occurring by water getting splashed on the leaves; tomatoes should be watered at ground level to avoid splashing.
Water the plants thoroughly when you plant them. Keep them moist for the first few weeks and then only give them about 1” of water a week.
By June you will want to start a regular feeding program. Try Happy Frog Organic Tomato and Vegetable fertilizer, specially formulated for your edibles. Give the plant 1 TBS. of food for the first week, 2 TBS. the second week and by the end of the month you should be up to 3 TBS. each week. In July give each plant 4 TBS. a week. Your tomatoes want to be dining on 5 TBS. of food by the end of August.
Keeping up with a feeding regimen also helps prevent blossom-end rot, a condition caused by lack of fertilizer, not enough calcium or magnesium, and irregular watering. The bottom end of the tomato turns brown and looks rotten, although the fruit is edible – just cut off the brown area. Adding about 1 tsp. of Epsom Salts a week to each plant helps correct the problem. Sprinkle some on the soil and water in.
Harvest tomatoes when they’re fully colored and are able to be gently squeezed. Store them at room temperature. Don’t refrigerate tomatoes unless they’re starting to spoil – the enzymes that help ripen tomatoes produce sugars that become inactivated when chilled.
So now it’s time to act like a “Big Boy” or “Early Girl” and enjoy some “love apples”. Be a “Jet Star”, eat like a “Celebrity”, take a “Megabite”, and have a “Brandywine” with “Tumbling Tom”.
Peace.
KZ’s Kreative Korner
It seems summer just doesn’t want to come this year. Don’t’ worry….it’ll come sooner than you think. Let’s take our minds off the cold by making some fun summer crafts.
This first one is a fun one for little ones as well as adults. Since we will have to wait awhile to get to the ocean, let’s bring the ocean to us! We’re going to make an ocean in a bottle!
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Clear plastic bottle
- Food coloring
- Sand
- Vegetable oil
- Small sea shells, glitter, and sea creatures
- Water
- Glue
1. Remove all labels from your plastic container. You want to be able to see everything inside
your bottle.
2. Then add some sand inside the bottle.
3. Fill the bottle about half way full with water.
4. Then add a couple drops of food coloring. Shake the bottle with the cap on until the water
has turned to color completely.
5. Next, fill the rest of the bottle with vegetable oil.
6. Add glitter, sea creatures, shells or anything you want in your ocean.
7. Glue on the cap.
8. You are finished with your ocean. Turn the bottle on its side and gently rock it to create a
“wave” inside your bottle.
Design Tip: Use your bottle ocean as a centerpiece for a nautical themed party. Place it in a flat dish on its side on top of a pile of sand and decorate the dish with seashells and other nautical items for this perfect seashore centerpiece!
Trends
Floral Design and Garden Design always take their cues from what is happening in the world of color, as I have often written about the predictions by the Pantone Institute and the CMG (Color Marketing Group). In terms of “Style” and how to interpret these colors, the following “Styles” are predicted to engage you, the consumer, in the upcoming year.
LUSH OASIS This trend celebrates the Earth. And on our planet Earth one finds tranquility in the Garden. All things “gardeny” (did I just invent a word?) include: moss, lichen, bark, berries, leaves, and other dried materials. Before you think dull – these elements are enhanced with strong deep reds, purples, olives, and blue-greens. So, the earthy and calming lavender, a foggy gray, and a rosy brown balance such boldness to create a “lush oasis”. Having recently returned from a Buyers Market in Atlanta, we noticed the use of ginkgo leaves in modern permanent botanical (silk flowers) Design, a perfect complement to this trend.
FLUID WATERS I tend to view this trend as old Chinese Design meets Crate and Barrel. Don’t get bogged down thinking this is a Coastal Seaside trend – it’s not. While you will see the cool hues of blue and blue-green water tones, they are punched up with bleached or bright colors as vivid accents. I truly believe coral is making a Huge comeback and is entirely appropriate in this trend. Glass, baskets, reeds, capiz shells, and white-washed surfaces complete the look.
SIMPLY URBAN Although I live in Midwest La Crosse, this trend has “me” written all over it! Referred to as serene sophistication – metals, marble, travertine, iron, silver, and a style with simple clean lines depict this trend. Careful not to think of the once sterile urban lofts found in the big cities. The trend is softened with such foliage as Dusty Miller, and flowers may even be planted in vintage boxes or steamer chests. The key to this trend is the word simple. Foliages play a big part to set off and feature blooms like orchids, succulents, even roses.
TRIBAL THREADS This trend is very warm in color, and warm as in our own tribal affiliations. That’s right – our own tribes. You may be a blond-haired, blue-eyed Norwegian, but even that heritage represents a tribe of sorts. Think of a Persian Rug with rich saturated colors. Now combine that with copper, burlap, beads, and rich woods. Here is your chance to add feathers. Warm colors are shot through with rich blues and purples. Regardless of your own ethnicity, this is an opportunity to blend yours with the world.
TECHNO COLOR This trend is like a box of crayons – except all the primary colors are shifted – Red becomes more of an orangey-red, blue becomes closer to, yet not quite, turquoise. Green becomes more of a tropic lime, purple becomes more of a fuchsia. Colored glass cubes, gel beads, and containers in geometric shapes of gleaming silver or chrome look “oh so techno color”. This is a digital rainbow.
NOSTALGIA COLLAGE Memories fill this trend style. This is where you may find a container at a rummage sale or thrift store that evokes a time in your life. This is by no means what was “shabby chic”. Rather, this trend may recall grandma’s quilt – colors are soft and faded, only to be punched up occasionally by saturated purples, oranges, and warm yellows. To bring this style into 2014, Design is simple and clean with only 2-3 types of flowers utilized in clustered bunches by flower.
There you have it – 6 Style Trends we can all embrace. Flowers and such for each style to get you thinking:
LUSH OASIS Scabiosa Pods, Freesia, Veronica, Pears
FLUID WATERS Hydrangea, Iris, Lycopodium, Turnips
SIMPLY URBAN Succulents, Lisianthus, Lotus Pod, Brussel Sprouts
TRIBAL THREADS Proteas, Cymbidium Orchids, Pears
TECHNO COLOR Calla Lilies, Anthurium, Artichokes
NOSTALGIA COLLAGE Alstroemeria, Orchids, Carnations, Limes
Slow Cooker Pork Tacos
This comes to you from Tiffany, one of our Designers in the Floral Shop – although most all of us have eaten it and even made it ourselves. It truly celebrates the different Peppers available to cook with.
3 whole Ancho Chiles (or 1-3 tsp. Ancho Chile powder)
3 whole Pasillo Chiles (found dried at Woodman’s)
4 cloves Garlic – rough chopped
2-3 Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce (usually come in a can – use only 2-3 unless you LOVE
heat!)
½ medium onion – chopped
3 TBLSP. Extra virgin olive oil
2 TBLSP. Honey
1 TBLSP. Cider Vinegar
Kosher Salt
Pepper
2 TBLSP. Oregano (if desired)
2 Bay Leaves
2 Cinnamon Sticks
4# Boneless Pork Shoulder (we use Pork Butt)
Cut into large chunks (I have the Butcher cut it.)
Corn Tortillas
Throw Everything into a Large Crock Pot. Have crock pot on high for about 1 hour or so, until it bubbles and boils. Then turn down to Low for another 6 hours or so. Discard Bay Leaves and Cinnamon. The Little Sprout lets it cook on Low overnight. The next morning simply break apart with a wooden spoon, or use 2 forks. Incredible aroma!
For Gluten Free – use San Marcos 6 oz, or La Morena 7 oz Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce. You can also squeeze all the sauce off the extra peppers in can that you do not use. Freezes and reheats well.
